HOW TO CREATE FAUX MARBLE COUNTERTOPS WITH PAINT
STEP 1:
Clean everything off your countertops that you want to paint.
STEP 2:
You will need to clean your countertops at least twice to make sure there SUPER clean!! I used this Simply Green when I cleaned mine, and I love this product. Make sure they’re completely dry before painting on them.
STEP 3:
You’re going to want to tape off the areas where your countertops meet up with anything you don’t want to be painted. I had to tape off my stove, sink, and one cabinet. I used Frog Tape because it gives you such clean lines when removing.
STEP 4:
Now it’s time to roll on your primer I used BIN Ultimate Stain Blocker. I did three coats of this with following the directions on the back of the can. The reason I did three coats is because I had a very busy print on my Formica countertops. Here is what I used for this step Purdy paintbrush, Paint Pan, Roller and Handle.
*HERES A TIP– FIRST, START CUTTING ONE CORNER AT A TIME. THEN USE YOUR ROLLER TO LEVEL OUT THAT SPOT. THIS WILL HELP YOU TO AVOID UNEVEN PAINTED AREAS.
STEP 5:
Once the primer is dry, its time to use your Rust-oleum chalk paint this is the color I chose. Using a clean roller, clean tray, and paintbrush you’re going to apply the paint on just like you did the primer. This paint will go on really smooth. I also did three coats of this paint also. Better safe than sorry.
STEP 6:
This is the fun part, now you get to create the veining that marble has in it. You’re going to get the gray colors that you like, these are the ones I chose Anita’s Craft Paint color Pale Gray,Rainy Day Gray and lastly DecoArt Slate Grey. Look at or get an example of what marbling or veining looks like and try it out first on a sheet of paper or an old board you have laying around. What I did is take these paint brushes that have a slant to it, drab it into the paint and start making lines with movement in them…make sure you follow down the countertop into the sides like this. I also used this sponge to help smooth things out. Don’t be afraid to mess up, you can always paint back over it with your chalk paint!! 🙂
STEP 7 :
This is the best Polyurethane I’ve ever used…You’re going to do 3 coats of Minwax One Coat Poly …I know it says ONE coat poly..lol I just feel the more protection the better. Make sure you follow the directions on the back of the can for dry times especially. I used a semi-gloss and I love it for the simple reason that it’s so easy to wipe down and clean. I rolled mine on with these Rollers and used this Purdy Brush in the areas that the roller can’t get to.
STEP 8:
The last step is the Caulk around your sink. I used DAP Caulk this is a waterproof clear caulk that’s what will help it protect from the water spills around your sink. Here is the Caulk Gun that I have. Here are some images the countertops…hope you take the plunge and get rid of your ugly Formica countertops as I did. BTW I did mine a year ago now and they have held up so well. I’ve had to touch up some places, but besides that they have been wonderful!!!!
Sample of the Veining
Before Painting the Countertops
BEFORE 
BEFORE
After Painting the Countertops
AFTER 
AFTER
HOW TO MODERNIZE YOUR CABINETS WITH PAINT
Step 1:
Start by taking the cabinet doors off. When you are doing this, make sure that you use identification to match the door back up with the base it came off of. I use the numbers method. The cabinet door 1 goes on base #1. Hopefully this makes sense. Clean it really well with Simply Green and make sure that there is no food stuck on them. Sometimes I had to use a razor blade to remove some of the gunk.
Step 2:
Take the hinges and the hardware off the cabinet and the base.
Step 3:
Fill any holes you will no longer need on the base or the cabinet with the wood filler
Step 4:
Sand down both front and back with a 220 grit or 320 grit sandpaper. We are just wanting to take off the sheen from the sealer that was on there before
Step 5:
Wipe down really well with a tack cloth or a damp rag. This is going to get all the dust and dirt off.
Step 6:
Start priming with a purdy paintbrush on the inset of the cabinet area, which most cabinets have. Work one cabinet at a time. You want the paint to be level on each cabinet. Now we are going to use the mini mohair blend 3/16th of an inch for your cabinets. This will give you a smooth clean look. You can do the sides of the door next.
Step 7:
Repeat the last step with using your top coat paint. I would recommend using Pro-Classic paint from Sherwin Williams. This paint can be mixed with any color you choose. Pro Classic paint is an enamel paint that will harden over time. This is the reason to use this type of paint.
Step 8:
Do the priming and painting to both sides of the door. After letting it dry fully for a couple of days, you will then put your hinges and hardware on these are the ones I used.Put hardware on first (hinges, pulls, and knobs) before installing them to each base of the cabinet.
Step 9:
You will repeat the same steps to the base of the cabinet as you did to the doors.
- Clean with Simply Green
- Fill any holes or damage with wood filler
- Sand with 220 Grit or 320 Grit Sandpaper here is the Sander I use
- Clean thoroughly with tack cloth or damp rag
- Frog Tape off any areas that your wanting to protect
- Prime using the Purdy brush or using your Mohair roller on the flat surfaces
- Then use Pro-Classic for your base paint
- Here is the Home Right Sprayer that I’ve used if you want to go this route
Step 10:
Now it is time to re-attach the doors to the cabinet bases. This is where the numbering of the doors with the base will be helpful. Match Door #1 to Base #1 and Door #2 to Base #2 and so on.